Yachtsmans Anchors Are Classic And They Work

Anchors…Old Can Be Better

I am not sure how many anchors we have. I have two that are on my 21 foot sailboat, A real big honker on the front of our 37 foot sailboat, and there are two old ones in my wife’s garden at the front of the house, a grappling hook one on out waterfront dock area, 3 small ones for the dignity each in buckets and 3 on the back poach that I have for the schooner day sailor. Last I have an old yachtsman’s or fisherman’s anchor that was given to us. If I look I can probably come up with a few more.

Of all of them I like the yachtsman’s anchor best. It looks like what a anchor should look like, not like the plow type ones that you can buy today. It is a solid iron heavy anchor, and it folds flat. I recently learned that there are some there are some advantages to it. This type of anchor will hold in almost any type of bottom, requires less scope then most other types of anchors, and when you bring it up the bottom that comes up with it shakes off easily. With all these good points you would think you could easily find one. No one seems to carry them anymore. 

The one I have is just a little too big for my 21 footer, and too small for the 37 footer. If we go on a few day trip I will take it on the 21’ boat, but if we are just out for the day, I use the Danforth type anchor that fits nicely the anchor well on the bow of the boat. The yachtsman has to hang over the bow. Even at that it still looks classy. 

I keep watching the used market for another one. As is it makes a nice nautical décor prop on the porch till when we go on short trips.

The Yachtsman is on the left...It folds flat as it is here and it is heavy.
I found this description on the web that is good.

Fisherman's Anchor

Fishing anchors work great. These old-fashion anchors still have specialized uses. The fishermans anchor, also sometimes known as the yachtsman's anchor, is the old-fationed anchor seen in coats of arms and old paintings. Made of galvanized steel, it has a long straight shank with a ring at one end to which the anchor line is fastened, and two curved arms at the other end to hook into the ground. These arms terminate in a broad a fluke with a sharp bill, or pea as it used to be called.


 

Smart Phone Navigation

Over the past year or so I have changed my thoughts about boat navigation equipment. The digital compass has changed the instrumentation available. A digital compass can now be so small it can be put in to almost any electronic device. They are now in smart phones and along with GPS programs in smart phones, a smart phone can be used quite nicely for casual navigation. An I-tablet likewise and they will give you a larger screen.

You do or should get a waterproof case for them. A zip lock bag can work and it will keep water splashes off them, but a waterproof case is better. There are some great nav. apps now available at no or reasonable cost if you want more than what comes in the smart phone.

The smart phone can give you a compass, a GPS, map/charts, and a radio (the Phone). For a small boat that you are not going far off shore in or in just a local area that has cell service it can give you the info you need. I still recommend that any boat should have a compass, digital or magnetic, and a VHF radio. These can be used as a backup and can be kept in your dry box that goes out with you.

If you have a larger boat you still will want real dedicated navigation equipment. What I have found is that for most of the day sailing I do these days, the only built in instrument on the boat that I use much is the depth finder. I use my I phone for everything else.

Epoxy Working Tips

Epoxy Clean Up

Epoxy work can be messy very messy and clean up after can be major work. Here are a few things I have found that helps when working with epoxy. 

1.      Mix well

2.      Get good coverage of epoxy over the surface you are putting together.

3.      I you are doing a large area use a big cup to mix in and work from.

4.      Do not over clamp.

5.      Scrape off excess while it is still workable

Use the recommended proportions of resin and hardener the maker says to. If you do not and if you do not mix well it may not set, it may set to fast or you may get hard and soft spots. So MIX WELL!.

Make sure you get good coverage when you apply it. No air gaps. The epoxy will fill small holes and gaps and it may soak in to soft porous surfaces.

You can extend the work time if after mixing the batch you work out of a pan with a large surface area. This lets the heat of the chemical reaction to dissipate and it hardens more slowly. Also keep the cup you mixed it up in. You can check the cup after it sets to see if it really did set all the way.

When you clamp parts together, do not over tighten. Just tighten till you get just a little squeeze out. It is not like the old wood glues you need to tighten down hard. The epoxy strength is in the thin surface you get between the mating surfaces.

After clamping scrape off excess squeeze out. It makes final sand off and cleanup much easier. A neat trick after it has hardened for clean it up is to first use a heat gun and scraper. You can scrape off a lot this way before sanding and the sand paper will not fill as fast.

Good old cheap vinegar also helps clean sticky stuff off your hands and body parts. Then use soap and water. You will smell a little like a salad, but that is not so bad. 8-)